Repair Cowling Outboard Yamaha 250 Four Stroke

Own a boat long enough and you can't avoid at least some common mechanical pitfalls. Most are simple outdoor headaches easily and quickly dealt with. Others are more involved, and in the extreme can lead to dangerous situations.

With boats and motors a little prevention is worth a ton of cure (often measured in gold). So it makes sense to get sage advice in taking care of a fishing boat, especially its motor. Often just a few simple practices can help prevent costly repairs.

"Like tilting a 4-stroke outboard motor at 45 degrees when it's stored on a trailer or boat lift," says Jeff Reedy, owner of Isle of Palms of Orange Park, and a master technician for Yamaha Outboard Motors. "Stowing a motor vertical is just fine for a 2-stroke motor, because a 2-stroke outboard has its oil mixed in the gas, so there isn't an issue."

But if a 4-stroke motor is stored for some duration in the down or running position, oil can drain from its reservoir down toward the rings and cylinders. This causes excessive smoking when an engine is started, and over time may cause motor damage.

Also use fresh fuel from a gas supplier that sells a lot of it, so it isn't stored in commercial underground tanks for long duration. And owners of outboard-powered boats are wise to use non-ethanol fuel.

"Non-ethanol fuel is considerably more expensive than standard ethanol-enhanced gas found at most service stations," says Ed Rodgers, a certified Yamaha technician for Jacksonville's Marine Max in Arlington. "But in the long run, more expensive non-ethanol fuel is cheaper for a boat owner than if he were to use fuel having ethanol. This is because ethanol gas degrades boat fuel lines and tanks, and it produces condensation and moisture in a boat tank.

"Today's regular gas has 10-percent ethanol, which is bad enough for outboard motors. But the federal government is mandating 15-percent ethanol fuel being the standard in the near future, and that stuff is an outboard motor death sentence."

If an owner must use ethanol fuel, Rodgers says using fuel additives is imperative for trouble-free boating. All motor manufacturers sell fuel additives, and it makes sense to use those produced by the company that made your motor, especially if the motor is under warranty. A number of after-market additives are available, too, and they're all good for thwarting boat fuel system degradation from ethanol fuel.

"Adding a fuel-water separator is a good idea, too, as this filters debris and water out of a boat fuel line, preventing it from reaching an engine with potential costly results," adds Rogers. "Water vapor is produced by ethanol fuel when a boat sits without use for some time if the full tank is not full.

"A separator cylinder changes quickly and easily, and looks like a car oil filter. When checking it every 50 to 100 hours, pour the gasoline inside into a clear container to inspect the fuel. If the gas is a single color, all is well. If there is water in the gas, there will be a separation line between the two different color liquids. This shows the filter is doing its job. But this is proof there was water in the fuel."

If the fuel mix is cloudy, there may be fuel problems, and a motor technician should see the boat immediately. And don't run the motor until the technician gives the OK. Draining the boat fuel tank may be required.

Changing a fuel water separator every 100 hours that a motor is run is good policy, according to Rodgers. He also advises adding a "fuel stabilizer" to a boat gas tank if the boat sits without use for 30 days or more. Fill the tank full, and add stabilizer.

Another easy tip for trouble-free boating offered by Rodgers is spraying "Corrosion Block" oil all over a motor (under the cowling) to protect its wires and metal parts from saltwater. Some boaters use WD40 spray oil, but Corrosion Block is better, reports Rodgers.

Here are a few other "quick fixes" for ordinary boating hassles, allowing anglers to get back to fishing fast.

1.) Motor won't start

This is a common problem, with many potential causes.

If a battery is dead at the start of a day and you have a "battery selector switch," make sure it's turned to the "on" or "both" position. Some boats have such a switch for batteries, and it may have been set to "off" by mechanics and others who know that boat lights or an aerator accidentally left on can drain a "hot" battery.

Another overlooked culprit is a disconnected kill switch. This happens often with fishermen running from place to place when a kill switch lanyard is connected to a belt loop or life jacket.

Occasionally an ignition switch becomes loose, and can be quickly remedied by tightening screws that hold it in place for proper electrical contact.

Also, be sure a motor throttle is in neutral. Sometimes a throttle is bumped from the neutral position.

Never overlook the possibility a fuel tank is out of gas, either.

2.) Dying boat battery

If a boat grinds in trying to start, but the battery quickly withers and dies, at least you know the battery connections are making some contact. Still, check wire leads from the motor to the battery, and tighten them, since running bumpy water often can loosen battery lug nuts.

If lugs/nuts are corroded heavily, scrape off gunk with a knife or screwdriver (wire brush is best), and wipe clean. Check the connections again for tightness, and if possible spray on oil like WD40 to battery terminals to improve conductivity.

3.) Dead cranking battery

Trade it with another on-board "hot" battery that may be used for an electric motor or other electronics.

A set of battery cables is valuable boating equipment, and they may be used for "jumping" a dead cranking battery with a charged one, even from another boat if you can summon on-the-water help.

Another possible solution to a dead battery may be a burned-out fuse. Know where boat fuses are located.

4.) Fouled propeller

Fishing line commonly wraps around a boat motor propeller, both a big outboard and electric motor.

Monofilament line is bad enough, and fine, braided line is even worse. Line can work deeply into a propeller seal, and ruin a motor. So get it out soon, and thoroughly.

With most weeds, even tough-stem bulrushes and pads, normally they can be removed by hand after a motor has been hauled up to expose its prop.

Sometimes simply pulling on an end of a fishing line removes it from a propeller. The motor may need to be put in "neutral" for a prop to spin freely as line is pulled.

With a big outboard, occasionally fouled weeds or line are well out of reach of anglers in a boat. If you can reach shore by electric motor or paddle, work the big motor into the shallows, get out and remove fouled material.

In deep, open water, it may be easiest to free a big motor propeller from in the water. While wearing a life preserver, ease overboard and have a look at the prop.

5.) Engine overheats

Never ignore this, as you can overheat and ruin an otherwise perfectly good engine.

Check the water intake on the motor near the propeller. Usually it's just weeds, lily pad stems, or a plastic bag blocking water flow.

Occasionally, especially on smaller outboards, the water outflow nozzle at the bottom-rear of the cowling can become plugged, and must be opened for clean water flow. This and the intake ports can be cleared of debris with heavy single-gauge wire (number 14 electrical) or even with heavy monofilament line (50 to 100 pound test).

6.) Steering locked

Most boats with steering wheels are hydraulic, and if the wheel won't turn, or the motor won't react to the wheel, it's likely low on fluid. Check for a leak, which may be short-term repaired with duct tape and chewing gum (no kidding).

Repair Cowling Outboard Yamaha 250 Four Stroke

Source: https://www.jacksonville.com/sports/outdoors/2012-08-04/story/tips-avoid-annoying-boat-and-motor-troubles

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